What is a Bezel?
If you've ever admired a cabochon gemstone set in a piece of handmade jewelry, chances are it was held in place by a bezel. I also use them for setting some faceted stones and odd-shaped decorative “stones” sea-glass, porcelain, fossils, etc). Bezel settings are among the oldest and most versatile stone-setting techniques because they are extremely secure, and their appearance is very clean.
What Is a Bezel?
A bezel is a thin strip of metal that surrounds a gemstone and holds it securely in place. The strip is formed into the shape of the stone, soldered, and then attached to a backing plate or other jewelry component (such as wires that form a ring).
Once the stone is placed inside the bezel, the upper edge of the metal is carefully pushed and burnished over the edge of the stone. This creates a secure mechanical hold without the use of prongs.
Because the stone is surrounded by metal, bezel settings provide excellent protection against impacts and accidental damage.
What Is a Bezel Seat?
Inside most bezel settings is a small ledge called a seat. The seat supports the stone and determines how high it sits within the bezel.
A properly cut seat allows the stone to rest securely while leaving just enough bezel wall above the stone to be folded over during setting. This creates a strong hold while minimizing the amount of metal that covers the stone.
Why Use a Bezel Setting?
Bezel settings offer several advantages:
Security
A bezel surrounds the entire perimeter of the stone, making it one of the most secure stone-setting methods available.
Protection
The metal edge helps protect the stone from chips and impacts. This is especially valuable for softer stones such as turquoise, opal, and many cabochons.
Comfort
Unlike prong settings, bezels have no protruding claws to catch on clothing or scratch the wearer.
Design Flexibility
Bezels can be made in virtually any shape, making them ideal for irregular stones, freeform cabochons, and unique artisan jewelry designs.
Decorative Bezel Wire
Not all bezels have a smooth upper edge. Decorative bezel wire, sometimes called gallery wire, features patterns cut into the top edge before the bezel is formed.
Common decorative patterns include serrated or sawtooth edges, scalloped edges, beaded edges, and floral or geometric designs.
Fine Silver vs. Sterling Silver
Depending on the stone and use, the bezel can be made of either fine silver or sterling silver.
Fine silver is softer and easier to set, and it tends to yield a cleaner finished edge. Sterling silver is stronger but requires more force during setting and can be less forgiving when working with delicate stones.