Jewelry Metals: Gold, Silver, Platinum & More
Every metal has its own color, durability, maintenance needs, and value. Here’s a brief overview of some of the most common jewelry metals — from luxurious gold and platinum to artisan favorites like sterling silver, Argentium®, and brass.
Gold
Gold has been treasured for thousands of years because of its beauty, rarity, and resistance to tarnish. Pure gold is naturally a rich yellow color, but because pure gold is very soft, it is usually mixed with other metals to improve strength and durability.
Gold Karats Explained
Gold purity is measured in karats (K):
24K Gold is 99.9% pure gold. It is very soft, has a rich yellow color, but is rarely used in everyday jewelry because it scratches easily.
18K Gold is 75% gold. It maintains a luxurious color, has a good balance of purity and durability, and is popular for fine jewelry (especially jewelry from Europe).
14K Gold is 58.5% gold. It is durable and practical, is excellent for everyday wear, and is the most common purity seen in the US.
10K Gold is 41.7% gold. It is hard and affordable. It is slightly paler in color and is commonly used in less expensive gold jewelry.
Gold is commonly marked as 14k, 18k, etc. I just returned from Turkey, and artisans there commonly use 22K gold for wedding bracelets and other items.
Gold Colors
Gold comes in several beautiful shades depending on the alloy metals mixed into it:
Yellow Gold — Traditional warm gold tone
White Gold — Gold mixed with white metals such as nickel or palladium, often rhodium-plated for brightness
Rose Gold — Gold mixed with copper for a soft pink tone
Green Gold — Less common; mixed with silver for a subtle greenish hue
Gold-Filled Jewelry
Gold-filled jewelry contains a thick bonded layer of real gold over a base metal, usually brass. Unlike inexpensive gold plating, gold-filled jewelry contains significantly more gold and is much more durable. It is affordable compared to solid gold, has a long-lasting finish, and like gold, is a good option for sensitive skin.
Silver
Fine silver is 99.9% pure silver. It has a bright white appearance, is more resistant to tarnish than sterling silver, but is softer and easier to scratch or bend.
Because it is softer, fine silver is often used in artisan jewelry, earrings, pendants, and detailed handcrafted work rather than rings or bracelets that receive heavy wear.
Sterling silver is the most common silver alloy used in jewelry. It is composed of 92.5% silver and 7.5% alloy metals (usually copper). It is stronger than fine silver, has a bright white appearance, is more affordable than gold or platinum, and is an excellent choice for handcrafted jewelry. Unfortunately, it does tarnish over time and requires occasional polishing.
Sterling silver is commonly marked with 925 or Sterling.
Argentium® Silver
Argentium is a modern type of sterling silver that replaces some of the copper with germanium. It is much more tarnish-resistant than sterling silver, has a brighter white finish, is hypoallergenic (no copper), and is harder and more durable than traditional sterling silver.
Here at Hammering On, I have been using Argentium more often. It has a number of positive attributes for the work I produce!
Platinum
Platinum is one of the rarest and most prestigious jewelry metals. It is a naturally white metal, it is extremely durable, dense, and has a heavy feel, it is hypoallergenic, and does not tarnish. It is typically 90-95% pure platinum and develops a soft patina over time that many people love.
Titanium
Titanium has become popular in modern jewelry because it is extremely lightweight, very strong, corrosion-resistant, and hypoallergenic. It is often used in very contemporary jewelry and body jewelry (piercings). It can also be anodized into vibrant colors like blue, purple, and bronze.
Copper
Copper has a warm reddish tone and has been used in jewelry for centuries. It is affordable, has a beautiful, earthy color, and is easy to work with. Unfortunately, it tarnishes quickly and can leave a green coloration on the skin. It is also softer than sterling silver.
Brass
Brass is an alloy made primarily from copper and zinc. It has a warm golden color and resembles “antique” gold. It is affordable, like copper, but more durable. But, like copper, it tarnishes over time.
Gold & Silver Plating
Plated jewelry has a thin layer of precious metal applied over a base metal. Gold, silver, and rhodium are commonly used for plating. It makes jewelry very affordable, but the plating can wear away and should be treated with care to maintain color and beauty.
Handcrafted jewelry from Hammering On often combines multiple metals to create contrast, texture, and visual depth — blending beauty with durability.